sashiko repair tutorial

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Getting Started

Gather together your fabric that your wish to stitch on, as well as the following;

Thread - ideally 100% cotton Sashiko thread

Needle - A sashiko needle must be long and thick to make its way through heavy cloth without buckling

Snips - short and sharp are ideal, but any scissors will do.

Template - this helps to keep uniformity within the stitches

Pins - heavy duty upholstery/denim ones are best for this.

Tailors chalk - a pencil is best for achieving well defined markings

Spare fabric - for patching up the hole/covering the worn part of the garment

You can find all the equipment in a beautiful presented kit here

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1. Trim away the loose threads

2. Now that the weft threads have been cleared (the white ones running horizontal) clean up any other fluffy or loose denim threads.

2. Now that the weft threads have been cleared (the white ones running horizontal) clean up any other fluffy or loose denim threads.

3. Place the patching fabric behind the hole. Aim to centre it so there is an even amount of fabric overlapping around the edge of the hole

3. Place the patching fabric behind the hole. Aim to centre it so there is an even amount of fabric overlapping around the edge of the hole

4. Use your pins to hold the patch in place, one on each side of the patch should be sufficient.

4. Use your pins to hold the patch in place, one on each side of the patch should be sufficient.

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5. Turn the jacket inside out

Check that your patch is sitting nice and flat without any buckling. This is also a good opportunity to double check you haven’t accidentally pinned your front to your back ;).

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6. Whip (stitch) it!

Start by running a whip stitch around the edge of the hole, make sure you catch the patch (stripe fabric) as you go. This secures the raw edge of the garment, as well as being the first step in attaching the patch.

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Stage one complete

7. Now get your  Sashiko template  out. I developed this template to speed up the process so you can spend more time stitching and less time marking out your stitch placement.

7. Now get your Sashiko template out. I developed this template to speed up the process so you can spend more time stitching and less time marking out your stitch placement.

8. Mark your holes with the tailors chalk. A gentle twist through the holes will be enough to mark the fabric and make clear guides.

8. Mark your holes with the tailors chalk. A gentle twist through the holes will be enough to mark the fabric and make clear guides.

9. Use the spots to guide where your needle will enter and exit the garment so that you end up with even lines that are uniformly spaced.

9. Use the spots to guide where your needle will enter and exit the garment so that you end up with even lines that are uniformly spaced.

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10. Running Stitch

Make the most of your long sashiko needle by weaving a running stitch through the fabric multiple times before puling through entirely.

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11. Now run your thread across the other way

For this example I have stitched all my vertical lines first, and then crossed over them with my horizontal lines starting at the base and working my way up. The beauty of hand sewing is that there are very few rules, as long as your patch is secure then you’ve done well, the finished look is totally up to you.

A beautiful & functional sashiko repair

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